Written by Loren Phillips

Given that entire industries are in the process of re-evaluating their business models to figure out whether they can carry on doing business in the same way as they did post-2008, this is a question the fashion industry warrants asking. What the recession certainly showed us was that if your business is not sustainable, it will have to shut its doors. Even the famous Lehman Brothers were not immune to the fatal Wall Street crash. So what practices within the fashion industry are not likely to survive the next fifty years?

According to Wikipedia1 , “Sustainable fashion, also called eco fashion, is a part of the growing design philosophy and trend of sustainability the goal of which is to create a system which can be supported indefinitely in terms of environmentalism and social responsibility. Sustainable fashion is part of the larger trend of sustainable design where a product is created and produced with consideration to the environmental and social impact it may have throughout its total life span.”

The new mantra of the business world is “triple bottom line”. Companies need to start taking a triple bottom line approach when it comes to re-evaluating their business models. Profit, of course, is inseparable from business, but what this new model includes are both people and planet. Important questions that need to be asked at this stage are:

• “What is the impact of my business on the lives of others?”
• “What is the impact of my business on the planet?”

Asking these two questions above and beyond the “How am I going to make money?” you should get a good idea of whether your business will live to see the 21st Century.

Fashion is an industry that is guilty, through its messaging and its non-stop turnover, of portraying itself as cheap, readily available and “must-have”. “The collective result is a homogeneous look that is far less interesting and much more disposable”2.

The fashion industry is responsible for the use of sweatshops and child labour. As the world becomes more connected, these types of business practices are simply unsustainable (not to mention unethical). The price tag usually lays testament to this fact, the cheaper the garment, the more likely it is to have come from unsound sources. An important question has become: “What is the true cost of this garment?”

The true cost underlines the environmental and social damage that it has caused making its way through the value chain and to you, the end user. Shoppers also need to take responsibility for their part, realising by making that purchase, they are creating the demand that feeds the supply.

Then there are fashion shows. Gorgeous, glamorous affairs no doubt, but at what cost? Fashion editors fly from all around the world to attend these soirees and no cost is spared moving textiles, trims and any other accoutrement from point A to point B. The carbon cost of these events is staggering, and more importantly, unsustainable in a world that is increasingly counting carbon dollars. It’s also worth a mention at this point that models starving to death is hardly a sustainable state of affairs.

And all of this for what? So that the world can watch the show on FTV as it happens, and the photographs can be spread digitally just minutes later. Fashion editors are just not the be-all and end-all of the fashion industry like they once were. The digital age is here, and rising to prominence are street style sites and fashion blogs. So what is all the fuss about? Savvy designers like Victor and Rolf have noticed the shift and are gearing up for the new world, presenting digital fashion shows online for all to see. The democratisation of fashion is already in full swing.

Sustainable fashion, a contradiction in terms?

The recent PSFK Salon held in Soho, panelists discussed various key issues related to sustainability in fashion. An important point that emerged was that: “Given that aesthetics and style concerns drive the industry both from a brand and consumer perspective, it became clear from the get-go that in any conversation around fashion, the fashion itself has to come first, meaning that sustainability has to naturally co-exist alongside these expectations.”3 It was also noted that brands play a central role in the education of consumers around issues of sustainability. Although there is a trend, mostly within mature consumer markets, towards slower, more considered consumption, people on the whole need to learn how to purchase with a different set of values in mind, for example:

• Will it last?
• Does it really suit me?
• Can I wear this in five years time?

The onus is also shifting onto big brands in terms of education. Brands leading in the sustainability discourse are integrating sustainable thinking into their core value system, allowing these messages to role out through the various media channels they have available to them. Of course, one of the positive benefits of this is an upswing in positive brand sentiment, especially amongst the younger generation who see “doing good” as one an essential tenet of being a big brand with a massive reach and influence. Big brands need to consider themselves more responsible in the race towards a sustainable future, as the have global reach and are in the financial position put do the research and development necessary in the creation of greener alternatives.

Moving through this transitionary period, we are seeing a large instance of “greenwashing”. Greenwashing refers to “the deceptive use of green Public Relations (PR) or green marketing in order to promote a misleading perception that a company’s policies or products (such as good or services) are environmentally friendly. The term ‘green sheen’ has similarly been used to describe organisations that attempt to show that they are adopting practices beneficial to the environment.”4

Greenwashing is dangerous to the entire sustainability effort as it erodes consumer trust, something which is very difficult to rebuild (note how much damage Nike has suffered with their sweatshop scandal). The difficulty lies in the fact that the terrain is largely unchartered, without the proper legislation to guide best practices. Time will see this rectified as sustainability auditing comes into place5, but in the meantime, savvy consumers have already woken up to false claims and are taking companies to task. Companies need to recognise the importance of authenticity in their messaging, and need to be honest about what has been accomplished and what challenges lie ahead.

Sadly, sustainability thinking is featured more in the posts of green blogs like Treehugger, than on the pages of fashion magazines, where the “green” trend made an appearance but then passed like another waning fashion fad. Digital activists are at the forefront of this debate with websites like Care2 and locally, I Am Changing the World , providing useful information to consumers about the environmental and health benefits of “conscious consumerism”. Some of the trends in sustainability viewed through the lens of fashion include seasonless fashion, the return to craft, localisation, vintage shopping and the move towards organic fibres.

What are designers doing locally?

Local designers largely have their hands tied as far as sourcing is concerned. We do not have a fully functional textile sector of which to speak, thus rely on imports of finished fabrics and have very little say over the process involved in manufacture.

If you are a designer, try source as much as you can locally. Design you own fabric. Start your own factory run on principles of fair trade, which maintain fair practices throughout the fashion value chain

What are retailers doing locally?

Perception of vintage shopping is changing in South Africa. In the last year or so we are seeing the mushrooming of vintage sales, from downtown to Jeppestown, with designers with an eye for a great vintage find selling their goods on to a market that is ready to start shopping in this way. Vintage styling marks the epitomy of individuality, as you can be almost sure that what you find, certainly only comes in one of a kind. Furthermore, it marks a huge backlash against mass produced, cheap, disposable goods.

What can you do as a consumer?

Realise that every single purchase you make, you are casting a vote. By creating a demand for whatever that item may be, you are requesting that more of it be supplied. Take a moment. Consider your next purchase. Mend your clothing. Buy vintage. Accessorise more. When you have the option, buy organic, even if it is only 5% at this stage. What you are telling the retailer is that that is what you want,and that is what you will pay for. Companies understand the language of money, and this is the way we should speak to them.

Fast Facts

• Cotton receives as much as 7 kg per hectare of herbicide and 5 kgs per hectare of insecticide (Source: US Geological Survey)
• Cotton uses more than twenty-five percent of all the insecticides in the world and 12% of all the pesticides (Source: Organic consumers)
• Global retail sales of organic cotton apparel and home textile goods have been soaring 40% per annum since 2001, according to the Organic Exchange
• The world’s top 10 organic cotton using brands last year, according to the OE, include Nike, Walmart, H&M, Levi Strauss & Co and Adidas
• Organic cotton production grew 20% in 2008/09 over 2007/08, across India, Turkey, Pakistan and 19 other countries, with growth forecast to set to continue at 20-40% through 2011
• Dozens of brands and retailers – who together consume 15 percent of the world’s cotton – have signed up to a global scheme called the Better Cotton Initiative, which aims to cut water and soil pollution while battling child and bonded labour. It involves 100,000 cotton farmers in China, Central Asia, Brazil and West and Central Africa. Retail giants Ikea and Levi Strauss sit on the council of the scheme (Source: Business Daily Africa)

References

1. wikipedia.org/wiki/Sustainable_fashion
2. www.psfk.com/2010/09/innovation-and-sustainability-in-fashion.html
3. www.psfk.com/2010/09/video-psfk-salon-ny-how-sustainability-is-driving-the-fashion-business.html
4. wikipedia.org/wiki/Greenwashing
5. retail.bizcommunity.com/Article/196/457/52551.html

Re-Using:

How much stuff do you ‘throw away’? From left-overs to clothes you no longer like, to an old cellphone or kettle. There is a need for all these items. Simply choose a place in your home or cupboard where you can consciously collect all these items (except the leftovers of course) and once a month donate them to your nearest shelter or orphanage. Actually, you could donate to any non-profit as a lot of them sell these products to purchase things that they need for their beneficiaries.

Parents, it’s really important to involve your kids in this process, teaching them compassion and humility is an invaluable gift. Take it one step further and get your friends and colleagues involved as well.

And for your left-overs – you don’t need to walk far to find a hungry person, and the exercise is good for you!

Volunteer:

Whether it’s once a week or once a month, donating your time or expertise is hugely rewarding for your self and welcomed by the organisation. Having said that, you don’t need to only volunteer with a non-profit. You can help out a friend-in-need, a neighbor – or the community in general by going on a litter collecting spree. There are endless ways in which you CAN and DO make a difference.

Remember that helping others ultimately makes our world a better place, which helps you!

Spread the Word:

Every week we interact with hundreds of people, why not use this opportunity to ‘spread the word’ on something that you are passionate or educated in? I personally speak to shoppers when I see they are still using plastic bags, and tell them about the savings they will make on their budget (I start with this benefit) and move onto the devastating effect that plastic waste has on our oceans, wildlife and earth.

If you choose to do this – please be subtle and respect others, not everyone is as passionate as you are and honey works better than vinegar!

Links to Investigate:

www.africall.co.za

http://www.volunteersouthafrica.co.za/

Risk factors within the family situation can leave families vulnerable and unable to fulfill their roles and responsibilities toward family members. The HIV and AIDS pandemic, for example, have a socio-economical impact on families and communities and can lead to family disintegration.

Families need support to be able to provide supportive environments to family members, especially orphans, girls and boys infected and affected by HIV/AIDS. Family Preservation programmes and services to address the needs of these families need to be in place.

Conditions for services to families are that the primary focus of services should be on prevention and early intervention in order to strengthen family life.

Family services are provided by Non-profit Organisations and government
service providers and they include:

• Counseling
• Marriage preparation and enrichment
• Parental programs to promote family stability and long term commitment of family members

Who should apply?

• Families who are faced with challenges such as HIV and AIDS and need support to function optimally.

Steps to follow:

• Contact a provincial family coordinator, Non-governmental Organisation or social worker nearest to you.
• A social worker will assess your circumstances and provide you with the necessary information and assistance.
• Removal of a family member may be recommended.

Standard services:

• Services to families should be delivered taken into consideration the legislative framework and policy prescripts that guide the day-to-day living of families and their members.
• The role of the social worker and Non-governmental organisations as well as childcare workers/ auxiliary workers/volunteers: The social worker:
  • provides preventative services (counseling services, marriage preparation and enrichment and parental programs) to promote family stability and long term commitment of family members to the family
  • identifies risk factors within the family and community that impact on families and to negotiate a family specific plan of action in close cooperation and participation with each family to address the challenges they are facing
  • coordinates services to families to ensure integrated service delivery to families
  • delivers intense family support (early intervention services) to families at risk in order to prevent family disintegration and/or the removal of a child/family member
  • embarks upon statutory processes when family members are in need of care and protection and/or rehabilitation
  • to delivery tertiary prevention services (Residential/alternative care/reconstruction and after care) and reunification services to ensure the reunification of families

Non-Governmental Organisations to provide services (including all three levels of intervention) and resources to strengthen families to be able to carry out there family responsibilities

The business sector to play a supportive role, firstly to the family of their employees and secondly, to implement workplace programmes to enhance and support family life

FBO’s to provide a social structure to families to facilitate the availability of religious, social and material support and to provide for a moral framework to guide the instilling of morals and values within the family and the spiritual development of family members

Child Care Workers/ Auxiliary Social Workers and volunteer to provide family care and support to families and to be a support system to the social worker for effective

Cost:

The service is free.

With thanks from South African Government Services

The Public Protector’s services are free and available to all, and if you lay a complaint your name will so far as possible be kept confidential.

The Public Protector is appointed by the President, on the recommendation of the National Assembly, in terms of the Constitution, for a non-renewable period of seven years.

How does the Public Protector work?

Anyone can complain to the Public Protector, who will then investigate the complaint. Think of the Public Protector as a referee who can look at all sides of a problem. If the Public Protector finds that your complaint is justified, he/she will do whatever possible to find a solution to the problem, which includes recommending changes to the system.

The Public Protector can also report the matter to Parliament, which will debate the matter and see to it that the recommendations are followed.

Investigations are mostly done informally, but the Public Protector can summons people to give evidence under oath or affirmation when this becomes necessary.

Complainants should not fear being victimized for “blowing the whistle” on corrupt or improper practices. All information that comes to Public Protector – including the identity of complainants and their sources of information – is treated as confidential.

Who can the Public Protector investigate?

• Government at any level. This includes central and provincial government, state departments and local authorities.
• Any person performing a public function. This includes anyone performing any official duty which affects South Africans, for example a state employee such as a policeman or an electoral officer.
• Corporations or companies where the state is involved, for example Eskom and Telkom.
• Statutory councils, for example the Human Sciences Research Council or the Council for Scientific and Industrial Research.

What can the Public Protector investigate?

• Improper prejudice suffered by the complainant or another person, for example as a result of:
  • Abuse of power.
  • Unfair, capricious, discourteous or other improper conduct.
  • Undue delay.
  • The violation of a human right.
  • Any other decision taken, or situation brought about, by the authorities.
• Maladministration.
• Dishonesty or improper dealings with respect to public money.
• Improper enrichment.
• Receipt of improper advantage.

What the Public Protector will not investigate

• Judgments by judges and magistrates, including sentences imposed by them.
• Private acts by individuals.
• Private companies.
• Doctors or lawyers who are not working for the state.

However, the staff of the Public Protector can help by telling you where to complain or what to do in such cases.

In certain cases the Public Protector may refer you to a court of law where going to court is the best way to deal with the problem. Since the Public Protector does not act as anyone’s legal representative, you will be referred to a lawyer if the matter must go to court.

How do I lay a complaint?

Should your complaint be about prejudice, you should try to solve the problem yourself before complaining to the Public Protector, for example by:

• Speaking to the official(s) involved; or, if that does not help
• Writing to the person in charge of the official(s), for example the head of the department, or the chief executive director, or the town clerk.

You could also consider approaching your Member of the National or Provincial Parliament. Only then, if you are still unable to solve the problem, should you make a submission to the Public Protector. You can do this by:

• Filling in a form and posting/e-mailing it
• Filling in an online form

The following information should be contained in your submission:

• The nature of your complaint.
• The background to your complaint.
• Reasons why you feel your complaint should be investigated by the Public Protector.
• Steps you have taken to solve the problem yourself (if applicable). You should mention names of the officials you have been dealing with, on what dates, and what was said. Copies of any correspondence between you and the officials should be attached to your letter.
• A telephone number where you can be contacted, if you have one.
• In some instances the Public Protector may require a statement under oath before investigating.

With thanks to South African Info